It's a little difficult to say much about Tobermory without sounding like a travel agent. Whatever your form of transport, it's worth visiting.
The marina attracts lots of different types of leisure boats. The one below, a Swan 43 caught my other half's attention because it was very much like Graphix, a yacht he part owned in a syndicate.
Graphix, a Sigma 41 at the moment graces the cover of Cruising Scotland (see 2nd image below). At the risk of sounding like a bookseller, it is not only a useful sailing book but it is also a lovely coffee table book. Lots of interesting information and lots of wonderful, full colour photographs of the coast of Scotland.
 |
| Graphix in Iona |
A relatively small yacht in the marina was being sailed around the UK. The two charming men onboard had set off from Chichester and were approximately a third of the way round having recently sailed from Iona to reach Tobermory. This beautiful, 23ft boat had a traditional look with the addition of the latest technology and all modern conveniences. Apparently, they also have lots of patience on board! The boat was called "GRACE", a religious acronym which was explained to us but I can't remember exactly what it was. Other acronyms, I found later were close but didn't have the same sense of love and inclusivity.
One of the most elegant boats to arrive in Tobermory while we were there was this black "Freedom" yacht. It's carbon fibre masts are fitted into the hull so it doesn't need the usual wire rigging to hold them in place. This design opens the deck as a more usable area when moored. In this instance the French family living on board, opened canvas sun canopies to give them plenty of shade. The weather and the sound of French children playing, led you instantly to the south of France.
"French chic has arrived, unsupported masts - black, beige sails, white/beige double sun canopies - family on board - Freedom yacht" [from sketchbook]
"Carousel still going around the harbour, looking for a berth... Carousel has finally settled in the middle of a larger boat's berth... Carousel is moving again." [from sketchbook]
This was so funny to witness, sorry Carousel. I should add, if they had manoeuvred quietly, we probably wouldn't have noticed but they were very noisy shouting to each other - sometimes at the same time! (My other half and I never do that!) Carousel had finally moored near us after a lot of moving up and down the pontoons and going round in circles: they were noticeably undecided on where to stay. When they arrived near us, on a berth saved for much larger vessels, we spotted their name and spotted the boomerang on his t shirt! I guess they subconsciously knew they were destined to go back and forth and round in circles.
Then they moved again!
Boat names are a huge subject for deliberation. Most names come with the vessel but you only have to remember "Boaty MacBoatface" now "RSS Sir David Attenborough" to understand how they can veer from the weird and wonderful to the safe and staid.
Our boat is "Eilean Beag" (say "ilan bowag" - I think!) which means, "small island" although we and the other owners refer to her as "EB".
 |
| my other half chatting to our new neighbours |
A beach occupies a small corner of Tobermory's busy harbour. Like all other beaches in seaside holiday towns, people were making temporary camps on the sand and were occupied making sandcastles, paddling & swimming. To complete the picture there's locally made ice cream nearby, in repurposed public toilets (I promise - that's true.) and more importantly for us the famous, Fisherman's Pier, fish and chip van where they serve freshly caught local, fish, crab, scallops, lobsters etc with chips that taste of potatoes. Like most things at the moment, they can be enjoyed alfresco, in this instance whilst sitting on the steps of the clock tower.
Later in the day we decided to explore the other end of the harbour by dinghy and have a closer look at the town's anchorages.
The water was flat, the breeze cool and as usual we found plenty to look at, not least the colonies of cormorants.
Cormorants are black seabirds that can be recognised easily when they are standing upright on rocks and posts, drying their outstretched wings. Here, they were perched precariously on ledges and nestled into the crevasses in the rock face about 10ft above the water. Their high-rise accommodation reached about 20ft above us. Most of this band of 10ft or so was covered in white droppings so it was relatively easy to spot nests.
I hadn't considered where cormorants nested until now. Thinking about it they couldn't nest where we normally see them and cliffs are obvious answer.
Note to owners of white walled cottages and pebble dashed house, cormorants and other seabirds did it first!
 |
| Cormorants' "painted" high-rise homes |
An unexpected find on our excursion was graffiti on the cliff face which, I think I'm right in saying, can only been seen from the water and fairly close to the land. Whoever created these pieces wasn't anticipating a large audience for their work which, of course, made them all the more appreciated. Judging by the natural colour of the rock these boats might "float" at high water - lovely, sight specific, artist's interventions. Tobermory might have its own Banksy.
 |
| lovely, sight specific, artist's intervention Tobermory might have its own Banksy. |
 |
| another lovely, sight specific, artist's intervention Tobermory might have its own Banksy. |
 |
| Tobermory from the dinghy |
Tobermory is certainly worth a visit.
On other occasions we've;
- walked part of it's coastal path, including visiting the lighthouse
- caught a bus to the beautiful sands and artworks of Calgary Bay on the west coast
- spent time going up and down the hill to visit the Arts Centre, An Tobar
No comments:
Post a Comment