"Foggy morning mist over Kintyre shrouded the early start with mystery.
Passed the pools of swirling water as we head north again. These tidal vertices capture the seaweed and form it into floating islands of treachery for the propeller. Similar currents in our major oceans work the same way capturing discarded plastic of huge floating time bombs for the planet."
"Fewer observation gaps - fog." [from my sketch book]
Through the Sound of Gigha then the Sound of Jura into Loch Craignish to Ardfern we had fog for some of the way. My look out watch was intense. The land, usually always in sight, was hidden and distances were difficult to judge but before too long I spotted the mast of a yacht in the distance which gave an indication of how far away things were. Less pressure and time to enjoy the damp air on my skin - a timely spritzer facial after several days of sunshine and factor 15.
Sitting in the cockpit with dodgers* on each side, my view of the world, passing or otherwise is limited to all above my sightline. So when my other half pointed out a very smart boat/vessel, all I could see was the portion above the hull. This appeared as a gliding platform of rigging - an improbably constructed and a very expensive raft. When I repositioned to see all the vessel, clearly it had a navy blue hull. This combined with a white deck and beige rigging was a very classy.
*Dodgers are the rectangles of canvas, usually with the boat's name added, attached to the stanchions at the rear of the boat. These give a degree of shelter from waves and wind at sea and a certain amount of privacy in port.
Ardfern, our home for two nights, was busy with lots to see.
We had noisy neighbours, nesting on the sheltering island. This colony of seagulls, like teenagers sitting next to each other or indeed some older women on mobiles (we had one nearby), had no volume control. Everything was theatrically shouted so even those at the back could hear, whether they wanted to or not.
There were expensive looking boats with koala prints going up the mast. These were in fact electric footholds or steps which opened at the press of a button to make climbing the mast easier.
Many boats had curiously shaped anchors. Our near neighbour was fitting one which enabled me to find out more. Apparently the curved bar opposite the flukes enables the anchor to turn on the seabed enabling the flukes to catch more easily. An elegant solution to a sometimes, frustrating problem. During our conversation we found our neighbours were from Norway and one of the reasons they keep their boat in Scotland was so they could enjoy dark nights in summer. One of the things we love about Scotland is the long days and short nights!
Still on boats, one of the most beautiful on our trip was "Summer Wine". We spotted this clinker built vessel as she was being taken out of the marina. The engine had a lovely, classic "pop pop" sound. At the helm was an older man wearing a traditional navy sweater and navy captain's cap accompanied by a white dog (think Snowy from TinTin). A fishing rod had its place at the stern and the dog was standing on the seat looking over the bow. An image straight from a story book. Unfortunately no photo and no sketch at the time but we did find the boat later.
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| an old, folk boat or maybe an old folk, boat |
One of the many highlights of Ardfern was the impromptu lunch in Lucy's. After donning our hiking boots we set off to stretch our legs and to see a little of the village. We didn't get too far when we spotted the local pub which seemed to have a carving of a Norman near its sign. The Galley of Lorne was tempting but I had spotted a very busy cafe over the road.
Lucy's served us delicious food from their all day, Sunday brunch menu: homemade bread, fresh coffee and a comfortable settee to sit on. [A comfy settee is one of the few things we miss on the boat.] Highly recommended. I later found they are opening in Kilmartin too - lucky Kilmartin.
Ardfern sunrise then more fascinating whirlpools.
Another early start, 6am, from Ardfern to catch the tide and as usual, had the radio on to catch any news on or near our course. Through this, we discovered there was a race from Ardfern to Tobermory. We looked aft and spotted one yacht then eight or so more following us. We seemed to be at the front of a race!
Inevitably the fleet of 14+ over took us. We followed them and their progress on the water and on the radio. Apparently, the race would start when they found some wind, probably at the southern end of the Sound of Mull.
On the way to Oban, we stopped in two beautiful bays. The first had at least three rocky islands that seals used to sunbathe. I counted about 20 seals. As the tide came in, many took to the water and came over to look at us. I think I caught one on the camera. They too know when to dive!
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| Castle Bay |
The second stop was Gylen Castle Bay on Kerrera. Stunning from the sea and equally stunning from the land. We watched walkers watching us.
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| leaving Castle Bay |
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| arriving in Oban |
Mooring on the pontoon in Oban was interesting!
People are very friendly and helpful in marinas and as this chap had come alongside offering to take a mooring line, I didn't hesitate. I passed him the line which he held! If you catch a line, you would normally quickly fasten it to a cleat - any cleat is better than none! Then you would normally move out of the way for the crew to finish the job but no, he continued to hold the line and be in my way so I couldn't jump off. Grrr! Then he started telling my other half what to do!
Meanwhile, the inertia of the boat had kept it moving forward and aided by the wind, was moving towards our new neighbours! Fortunately, another person came to help who caught another line I threw, enabling me to get ashore and secure the first. It all took seconds but I felt I had lost ten years!
The second helper turned out to be the harbour master. I wonder if he has helped others negotiate the help of the first chap before...
Later, after a shower and food, we relaxed and watched a thick blanket of mist fall over the land behind Kerrera - a slow motion, silent avalanche. The following image captures a glimpse of it in the distance.
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